Thursday, October 8, 2009

Ratu Mara - A Colossus of the Pacific

Remembering a colossus

www.fijitimes.com - Thursday, October 08, 2009

Tuimacilai: A Life of Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara was four years in the making.

It is the first major biography of Fiji's late president and prime minister, who was the dominant political figure in the period leading to Independence and in the first decades of nationhood.

It was said of Ratu Sir Kamisese that he bestrode Fiji's political stage like a colossus.

To some his height and quick temper meant he was "the towering inferno"; others gave him god-like status.

His achievements were numerous. But most of all he was known for his advocacy of multi-racial co-operation, through a philosophy of dialogue and consensus he called the Pacific Way.

Tuimacilai is the latest book by the historian and author Dr Deryck Scarr.

It is printed and published as a joint venture between the Fijians Trust Fund and the Australian company Crawford House Publishing.

It will be launched in Suva on Fiji Day, Saturday October 10th, by Ratu Sir Kamisese's close friend Grand Chief Sir Michael Somare, Prime Minister of Papua New Guinea.

Sir Robert Sanders, for many years secretary to Ratu Sir Kamisese and cabinet, knew the late leader better than most.

He describes Tuimacilai as a monumental work adding, "I would certainly call it definitive."

"To those of us who knew him the whole account rings true even without all the evidence so studiously gathered, interpreted and synthesized," says Sir Robert.

He compliments Dr Scarr for making sure Ratu Sir Kamisese's "very considerable achievements are fully recognised."

Here are some brief extracts and summaries from Tuimacilai, the first public disclosures of the contents of the biography:

"..he was forever navigating between discordant interests and aspirations in his re-emerging nation until the year 2000 when he became overwhelmed at the end of a very long walk along a political tightrope".

Dr Scarr saw Ratu Sir Kamisese as odd man out among the chiefs of his era. He had attended four universities, reading medicine, history, economics, political science and colonial administration. By conversion he was a Roman Catholic among Methodists. "Above all," writes Dr Scarr, "he was recognised as likely to see much more moral force in Indian political claims than most other Fijians were likely to do."

Psychology of a community: "As he remembered and as was often remembered of him too, he had actually taken full note of Indian aspirations throughout his time in district administration. 'In many instances I felt that their main problem was a psychological one,' he recalled in 1972, as prime minister with an election coming up. 'They felt that in spite of the role they played in the development of this country, they were not recognised as any more than itinerant immigrants who could possibly be sent away again. Having this understanding of the Indians, whenever I have the opportunity to serve them, I make sure that I serve them as fairly and honestly as I serve any other citizens in Fiji.' "In his diaries, though, his concern for his own people predominates, Ratu Mara wanted rapid results for Fijians in industrial as well as agricultural development."

Quoting from a letter by Ratu Sir Kamisese to his mentor and relative, Ratu Sir Lala Sukuna: "By the way, there will be no peace of mind if we keep on underlining the differences between Indians and Fijians. Neither race seeing anything in common. One thinking the other privileged."

Quoting G K Roth, author of The Fijian Way of Life: "Ratu Mara is an outstandingly able and intelligent young chief holding some remarkably unorthodox views on the Fijian social system and administration."

On the role of chiefs: "As a high chief from an established dynasty, and so the living representative of a creator god, his ascribed function was to serve as a central co-ordinating agency and in his formative years it was generally axiomatic that chiefs would or should lead in modern politics too."

Impatience: "Behind their hands, the young Fijians of his think tank said that it was doubly fortunate that he had never gone on to be a surgeon, because so impatient a man would hardly have waited for an unpunctual anaesthetist before making the first incision."

As a child at Levuka: "Ratu Mara was photographed there at about eight years old - a bare-foot boy in shorts and shirt, handsome, solemn, reserved, wary and not altogether happy, or perhaps merely shy."

Ratu Sir Kamisese on race and racialism: 'Race is a fact of life as language is a fact of life and these facts will have to be reconciled with progress. .. racialism is an evil, but also a reality"... "racialism is a cancer, a malignant growth; you cannot confine it to one race only."

Recollections from Oxford University: "My memories of him are vivid", wrote his modern history tutor, Mr A F (Pat) Thompson, nearly 60 years after taking him on. "Invariably dignified, his presence greatly reinforced by his youthful stature. Economical with words, but something of a wit when he uttered. Quietly competent, not a natural third by any means. In the late '40s, when there were schools lunches as well as dinners, I remember him striding round the quad after one lunch, completely under control after putting away phenomenal quantities of drinks. He was a truly heroic drinker in a very booze-ridden period."

Being hungry at Oxford: "In secluded gardens behind the college, he went scrumping (pinching) pears with Ratu Penaia because, big men that they were, they were so hungry for so much of the time."

A favourite Biblical text: "Have I not commanded thee? Be strong and of a good courage: Be not afraid, neither be thou dismayed: for the Lord Thy God is with thee whithersoever thou goest."

Quoting Dr Peter France on Ratu Sir Kamisese as a good listener: "He would ask questions and then subsidiary questions and you would find yourself talking to him for half an hour and only on leaving him realise that you hadn't the faintest idea of what his thoughts were on whatever you'd been discussing."

Socialising with Pat and So Raddock: "In houses like the Raddock's ... he was free to relax, joke, pour the wine, wrangle with Pat about cricket and poke fun generally."

Complaining when Adi Lady Lala Mara took her time when the couple were ready to go out: 'Clean people don't need to bathe,' he might comment when his wife lingered in her bath and they were going to be late for some cocktail party."

Fijian Arts and Craft

The beauty of the Fijian craft

www.fijilive.com

An average mat may take up to two weeks to finish.

One of the places you simply must visit on your Fijian holiday is the local handicraft market. The obvious benefit is being able to buy local art and craft at much cheaper prices compared to handicraft stores.

But there is another reason why you should do so. Visiting a local market is a chance to interact with local craftspeople and watch them at work.

You will get a better understanding of how local handicraft is made and craftspeople will happily answer any questions you may have about the materials and processes.

Suva’s handicraft market is located behind the Central Post Office while the one in Nadi is a short walk from the fresh food market in the centre of town.

At both markets, you will find Fiji’s two major races, indigenous Fijians and Indians sharing stalls side by side. These people, who come from various parts of Fiji, specialise in different craft depending on the area they are from.

Take the case of Leba Waqanisau, who hails from the island of Nayau in the Lau Group. She moved to Suva in 1960 to be close to her parents, who had resettled in Suva and decided to stay.

Leba, now in her 60s, has been making and selling handicraft for the past 36 years and has held a stall, No. 18 at the Suva Handicraft Centre for a good number of those years.

When I visited her, she was making pink rosettes out of vau, a rough paper like material that is made from the bark of a local tree. Vau bark is usually stripped and soaked in water for four weeks, before being flattened through beating. It is used in salusalu (traditional garlands), skirts and rosettes.

I saw Leba take a small piece of pink vau, make small circles out of it and deftly tie it together to make a perfect little rosette. It would be used to decorate some woven girl’s slippers she told me. Leba also weaves mats and makes tapa (the traditional cloth made from the bark of the mulberry tree).

These are skills she learnt growing up in her village on Nayau, where young girls would sit alongside women and imitate what they were doing. “We learnt by watching what they were doing, no one really taught us,” she says.

The younger generation is losing interest in the traditional crafts, says Leba. “You have to keep doing it to maintain it.”

One of the things that deter many young people from entering the handicraft industry is the relatively low returns for what is labour intensive and.time consuming work. Take a woven mat for example.


An average mat may take up to two weeks to finish and sells for only $25 - $35, a steal if you consider the amount of time and effort that goes into making it.

By visiting and buying directly from craftspeople, you are helping support the local craft scene.

It also means a greater portion of the sale goes directly into their pockets, as opposed to buying it from big handicraft stores where craftspeople are forced to sell their wares at cheaper prices.

So pay a visit to the local handicraft centres on your next visit to Fiji, you’ll no doubt take back stories of how those special holiday mementos were made.

Art of Fijian body painting

Art of Fijian body painting

www.fijilive.com

During war in the old days, warriors painted their faces and sometimes chests in mainly red or black colours.

Traditionally, the Fijians painted their face and bodies in a range of different colours and patterns, not only for cosmetic decoration but in terms of tribal warfare, when a more serious make over was called for!

An indigenous palette of red, yellow, black and white was used, which was later joined by blue and vermilion with the arrival of the Europeans in the 1800’s.

In fact vermilion had become equivalent to gold by the mid 19th century and the Fijians swapped baskets of the seafood delicacy, blanche-de-mer, with European traders for the valuable red pigment.

Black pigment was obtained from the soot of burnt candlenut or kauri resin, or from charcoal or fungus spores, then mixed with coconut and other oils.

Yellow was derived from a type of ginger root as well as turmeric.
For everyday decoration, faces were striped, zigzagged, spotted, bisected or plain black except for a red nose.

For wars, men would paint their faces and sometimes chests in mainly red or black – colours that were associated with battle, blood and death.

Tumeric was used to paint babies and women for the first three months of pregnancy and after the birth, until the baby was weaned.

During this time, a woman was sexually ‘tabu’ and if a man was found with traces of yellow on him, he was seriously teased!

Tumeric was also used for young boys’ puberty ceremonies or renaming ceremonies celebrating the first killing.

While men favoured red and black for war paint, the women preferred to use brighter colours or yellow, red and pink.

Fine black circles around the eyes were considered beautiful.

Before painting, skin was oiled and scented with coconut oil – a practice that many Fijian women still include as part of their beauty routine.

After the European settlers and missionaries arrived in Fiji, tribal warfare and rituals such as initiation tattooing were discouraged. Eventually, the practise of Fijian face and body decoration also disappeared.

Today, face painting is reserved for cultural performances only.

The romantic tale of the Tagimoucia

The romantic tale of the Tagimoucia

www.fijilive.com

The Tagimoucia is one of the rarest flowers in the world.

Nestling in a dormant volcano, the rare and lovely tagimoucia blooms on the fringe of Taveuni's remote lakes, four thousand feet above sea level.

One of the rarest flowers in the world, the tagimoucia or medinilla waterhousei, grows only on the island of Taveuni, home to lush rainforest, exotic ferns, orchids, rare palms and native trees.

Behind Fiji's unique, national flower, there is a legend - a Fijian legend full of South Seas romance. On the island of Taveuni there once lived a beautiful princess.

One day, she found out that she was to lose her lover because her father had betrothed her to an ugly, old man in the village.

In her anguish, she ran into the forest, where she wandered around for many hours before she found herself on the banks of an exquisite, jewel-like lake.

She was later to be discovered by a search party, weeping as she slept upon a bed of tangled, green vines.

As her tears rolled down her cheeks, they fell on to the stems of the plant and turned from salt into blood red flowers.

The group of men, send by her father to find her, named these flowers "tagimoucia" which means in Fijian "crying tears of despair."

And there they are to this day, for the people of Taveuni believe that this exquisite flower did indeed originate from the bitter tears shed by a young girl in love.

As for the princess, when she awoke from her nap she was delighted to find her lover by her side. Her father, feeling pity for his daughter, then allowed the young couple to marry and they lived happily every after on Taveuni - the "Garden Island of Fiji."

Common Fijian Phrases

Say It In Fijian

www.fijilive.com

No stay in Fiji is complete without learning some Fijian words. The best way for you to learn Fijian and Hindi is to converse with a local. Not only will you learn a new language, you will also make a lifelong friend. Here’s a few hints about pronunciation - an essential part of Fijian and Hindi. The vowels in the Fijian language are pronounced the same as in English but the Fijian language also comprises of the following consonants - b is mb as in bamboo, c is th as in that, d is nd as in candy, j is ch as in church, g is ng as in singing, q is ngg as in great. In Hindi, the vowels are pronounced as follows: a is long as in master; e is long as in wet, I is pronounced as e like reef, o as in wow, u as in run.

Here are just some words that you might want to try out:

EnglishFijian
Hello (casual)Bula (Boo-lah)
Hello (formal)Ni sa bula (Nee Sah Boo-lah)
Good morning Ni sa yadra (Nee Sah Yarn-drah)
PleaseKerekere (Cayraycayray)
Thank you/goodVinaka (vee-nakha)
YesIo (ee-oh)
NoSega (Seng-gah)
EatKana (kah-nah)
Lady/womanMarama (Mmah-raam-mah)
ManTuraga
Child(Too-rang-gah)
Gone (Ngo-ne)
SmallLailai (Lie-lie)
LargeLevu (Lay-voo)
A little Vakalailai
(Vah-car-lie-lie)
A lotVakalevu
(Vah-car-lay-voo)
QuicklyVakatotolo
(Vah-car-toe-toe-low)
SlowlyVakamalua
(Vah-car-mah-loo-ah)
House Vale/bure(Val-lay/Boo-ray)
ToiletValelailai
(Vah-lay-lie-lie)
ComeLako mai
(Lah-koh my)
Go away Lako tani
(lah-ko-tah-nee)
Goodbye (informal) Moce(Mow-they)
Bring it Kauta mai
Take it away(Cow-tah my)
Kauta tani(Cow-tah-tah-nee)
One moreDua tale (Doo-ah tah-ley)
OneDua (Doo-ah)
TwoRua (Rooh-ah)
DrinkGunu (Ngoo-noo)
FoodKakana(Kar-car-nah)
ChurchVale ni lotu (Vah-ley nee low-too)
CoconutNiu (New)
Shop/Store Sitoa(See-toh-ah)-(store)
Earth ovenLovo (Low-voh)
SarongSulu (Sue-loo)

The shifting sand dunes

The shifting sand dunes

www.fijilive.com

The dunes are clearly visible from the main highway just outside Sigatoka.

Near where the Sigatoka River meets the sea on South-Eastern Viti Levu stretches an expanse of barren wind-blown sand that has been the subject of myth and superstition for centuries.

The dunes are clearly visible from the main highway just outside Sigatoka.

All you need to do is park the car at the foot of the dunes and a short, steep ascent up the sands is rewarded with a panoramic view of rolling surf, the mouth of Sigatoka River and a desert-like vista of breathtaking beauty.

The Sigatoka sand dunes are constantly being reformed by wind and tide on the side nearest the sea and have revealed archaeological treasures that have done so much to establish Fiji's earliest human history.

The dunes are the product of fluvial erosion in the coastal hinterland and coastal beach forming process. Eroded rock material from the Sigatoka River's catchment is transported downstream to the river's mouth where a sand bar has developed.
Wave action (long-shore drift) then transports the sand ashore. Strong on-shore winds then further transport the sand in-land, piling it up in the form of dunes. Dunal vegetation reduces Western wind velocity and acts as a sand trap, thereby effectively stabilising and building up the dunes at the same time.

The sand dunes extend from the mouth of the Sigatoka River for a distance of close to five kilometres. The width of this complex system of dunes and inter-dunal hollows (swales) varies from around 200m in the east to 0.8 km in the west

Their average height is 20m but at their high point in the Western Section, they reach in excess of 50 meters. Dunes composed largely of alluvial sands, overlay details and beach deposits.

Their average height is 20m but at their high point in the Western Section, they reach in excess of 50 meters. Dunes composed largely of alluvial sands, overlay details and beach deposits.

For almost half of their total area of approximately 240 hectares dunes are unstable.

Occasionally, as the huge sand dunes shifted with the wind, shards of pottery and human bones were uncovered.

Even today, as the dunes continue their endless movement, new discoveries are being made.

For almost half of their total area of approximately 240 hectares dunes are unstable. Occasionally, as the huge sand dunes shifted with the wind, shards of pottery and human bones were uncovered. Even today, as the dunes continue their endless movement, new discoveries are being made. The mystery of this dune-forming process has been occurring for the last 3500 years.

In those times, the coastal strip was tropical forest with.fertile soil and lay close to rich fishing grounds making it an ideal spot for settlement.

Somewhere around 1,000 BC, migrants believed to be from Vanuatu arrived. Called the Lapita people, evidence of their early settlement has been found in the Sigatoka sand dunes and on Yanuca Island near the present site of The Fijian Hotel.

However, their exact origins and eventual fate are lost in time.

It has been suggested that Fiji's early settlers played a major role in the formation of the sand dunes through deforestation of the Sigatoka River's catchment.

These first settlers may have come and gone unnoticed, but for the ancient shards of pottery that has survived centuries in the sand and triggered modern scientific interest in the area.

There was a second epoch of settlement and it too remains largely unexplained.

The watchful eyes of the coconut

The watchful eyes of the coconut

www.fijilive.com

The legend says that God gave the coconut three eyes, which are represented by three dark indentations at one end of the nut.

Falling coconuts that watch for you! You've heard about how the coconut tree is called the Tree of Life in the Pacific and how versatile it is.

However, have you heard the one about the falling coconuts that watch for you?

According to Fijian legend, there's no need to watch for falling coconuts when you're in the islands, because the coconuts will watch for you.

The legend says that God gave the coconut three eyes, which are represented by three dark indentations at one end of the nut.

Each of the eyes has a job to do: one looks left, one looks right, and the third looks down to make sure there is no one below when it decides to fall from its lofty perch.

Getting hit by a falling coconut would inflict considerable pain, but thanks to the legend of the three eyes, such an accident almost never occurs. Falling coconuts are often heard of but, thankfully, are never felt.

Perhaps it's because of the legend - who knows? One thing's for sure, your head's probably very thankful!